Dining Out: True Grits

Gold Coasters fight for a handful of tables and a chance at gussied-up Southern fare; the Shikami brothers take their modern Asian aesthetic to the Loop.

By Dennis Ray Wheaton

(page 2 of 3)

I was worried that Alan and Kevin Shikami, the ambitious brothers who opened SHIKAGO a block north of the Board of Trade, had spent so much time dreaming up the affected name that they'd neglected the food. But the menu at their modern Asian spot, next to the W Hotel on Adams, mimics the one at their River North standout, Kevin: more options than the Board of Trade. A big selection of maki and other starters means you can make a meal without an entrée. The Shikago roll of salmon, avocado, tomato, spicy mayo, and strong cilantro flavor reminded me of seviche for chopsticks. But too many of the maki I tried had mushy rice.

Kevin's wonderful signature tuna tartare also appears, with a hit of wasabi, soy, ginger, and a side of spicy tuna, hamachi, and avocado maki. Alan Shikami, the congenial host, loves to make the rounds—and brag about his brother. "Kevin throws all sorts of animals into the pot," he said when I noted the delicious reduction with the caramelized roasted quail and braised daikon. At first I was bewildered by the smoked pork jowl and roasted sea scallop with grilled Chinese broccoli, Szechwan peppercorn–dusted goat cheese, and kimchi in chili/heirloom garlic dressing. Then I decided I loved it.

Beautiful entrées deliver Kevin's patented vivid Asian flavors in modern guises. Meat lovers should go for five-spice glazed and roasted Berkshire pork loin on black rice with braised pork belly, bok choy, and a spring roll of smoked pork jowl, plum, and napa cabbage. Fish is always a safe bet with Shikami. Check this out: He roasts Alaskan halibut, gives it a spicy caramel glaze in coconut milk, star anise, and ginger reduction, and serves it with an array of chanterelles, charred corn, Chinese broccoli, and a salad of smoked Thai chili, candied lime, pickled plum, and radish sprouts. It sounds like a mouthful—but it's a good mouthful.

Catherine Miller, formerly of May Street Market, does the desserts, and they are stunners: intricate and unusual. Two past standouts are the coconut coriander cake with white chocolate mousse, roasted mangoes, and cardamom ice cream and the toasted almond strudel with caramelized plums in ginger broth with white chocolate ice cream. A 2005 Domaine Gros Frère & Soeur Bourgogne "hautes Côtes de Nuit" ($65), from an interesting but outrageously expensive wine list, was on the low end, and it was chilled way too much, leaving the lovely Burgundy aroma more pronounced than the damped-down flavor.

The room provokes mixed reactions. A couple of my companions didn't care for it at all—looks like a warehouse—but others found it edgy and airy. (Speaking of edgy, we were instructed to use the valet at the W Hotel: a ridiculous $24.) I was even more put off by the carryout space up front, which accounts for roughly half the dining room but remains vacant during dinner with all the steel heating trays empty behind glass cases. The area is redeemed by interesting art: big photographs of cooking utensils on rice paper and a long installation of four spiraled metal strips. My favorite touch is the wood tabletops cut from recovered old oak, ash, and walnut trees with similar burl patterns. Despite a few problems, a good Loop dining destination is always welcome, especially one that the brothers Shikami should sharpen over time.