Dining Tidbits

New (A Mano), Budget Beat (Winston’s Market), Hotel Haute Cuisine (Lockwood), Retro (Old Town Brasserie

(page 4 of 4)

RETRO
Old Town Brasserie
Once upon a time in Chicago, elegant restaurants and chic cabarets dotted the landscape. But over time, some of the city’s sweetest rooms quietly disappeared. Bob Djahanguiri’s intimate Toulouse and Cognac Bar come to mind—the sister spots he closed in 2000. A few spins around the world later, Djahanguiri’s back with white tablecloths and chef Roland Liccioni (Les Nomades, Le Français). At his Old Town Brasserie, the genre we’ve been missing is just beyond the gleaming granite bar. Settle into a silk-lined banquette and save at least one warm baguette to sop up the garlic butter from your escargots. In Liccioni’s hands, slow-poached salmon is a work of art, and financier cake makes dessert worth the splurge. On weekends, the bar turns cabaret. Merci, Roland. Thanks, Bob. 1209 N. Wells St.; 312-943-3000. –Penny Pollack 

PhotograpH: Peter Wynn Thompson

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