This lively, casual place is so popular that the locals could probably drive downtown before a table opens up here on the weekend. The ballyhooed cocktails are hit-and-miss, but the atmosphere and the food make the wait worthwhile. A crisp flatbread with beets, arugula, and goat cheese is error-free, and fried soft-shell crabs feature a palate-jolting smoked-tomato vinaigrette. The thinly shaved fries are memorable, and they accent a flat iron steak that is juicy as can be. A half chicken with fried polenta, snap peas, and buttery mushrooms is unadulterated comfort food—albeit on the salty side. The sticky toffee pudding is good, but its dense sour cream ice cream is superb.