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1639 S. Wabash Ave.
Chicago, IL 60616

Critic’s Notes

In his sleek, modern dining room, Ryan McCaskey revels in subtle flavors gorgeously arrayed on the plate. Aided by pipette and tweezers, the Saigon-born chef creates sophisticated magic with sumptuous touches, such as caviar, truffles, and marrow, that harmonize with fine seafood and meats in delicate saucings. Supporting vegetables appear in unexpected ways: celery-onion cream on Montauk oysters, caramelized rutabagas with flank steak. Some surprising lapses in hospitality offset all the wonderfulness, however, ranging from slow service to skimpy wine pours and a resistance to substitutions. Five- and 10-course tasting menus vary seasonally. Inventive cocktails and serious wine program.

Dishes We Liked

(From the tasting menu) Peekytoe crab with corn, maitake mushrooms, and black truffle; potato gnocchi with lobster, matsutake mushrooms, and truffles in miso sauce; salmon with cucumber yogurt, grilled spring onions, and rye crumble; panna cotta with caramelized fennel and hibiscus sorbet

Related Stories

Dish: see "Jones for Acadia" September 2011

Additional Information:

Price: $50-plus
Cuisine: Contemporary
Neighborhood: South Loop
Noteworthy: Outdoor dining
Wheelchair accessible
Will seat past 10:30 p.m.
Hours: D Wed.-Sun. Br Sun.
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