Just when it seems that culinarily ambitious, unabashedly formal special occasion dining might be a dying art, out of sync with the Zeitgeist, along comes this elegant place, breathing new life into the genre. Ryan McCaskey, the Saigon-born chef, pulls out all the stops with lobster, truffles, foie gras, and other luxurious foodstuffs. But humbler tastes—mustard seeds here, pickled cherries there—also shine, with supertasty accessorizing morsels pushing the main events in interesting directions, all coherent. And such pretty plates! Food doesn't get much lovelier than this. Ten-course tasting menu ($175). Serious wine program.