No longer the fine-dining upstart working to impress devotees of old French or nouvelle cuisine, Grant Achatz’s molecular mecca still whips off culinary and visual artistry on every plate, albeit with less dazzle than when it was young and hungry. Plenty of razzmatazz remains: Courses transform right at the table, chefs scribble desserts right on the tabletop, and one creation floats. And the food gambols and sings, as in a revelatory take on orange chicken using veal sweetbreads and chestnut purée, or an otherworldly clear-and-white plate of lily bulbs, rambutan, and finger limes. It’s still Chicago’s best restaurant, but it had better watch out for the next upstart. Multicourse tasting menu, $210-$265 per person; wine pairing menu offered.