It’s hard to believe that a great restaurant lies in the sea of vacant lots across the street from the old stockyards, but Eusebio Garcia prepares upscale Mexican food here with—fittingly—unexpected touches. The quesadilla de huitlacoche carries a zingy citrus flavor, and the tamal nejo pairs a smoky-sweet mole with an ash-layered masa. Caramelized green papaya and mango accompany the salmón al carbón entrée, and the roasted chicken breast delivers an unfowl-like robustness with a mountain of oyster mushrooms and a rich sauce. Nanches, oddball South American fruits, come alongside tres leches cake. Affordable wine list.