Andy Aroonrasameruang’s devoted fans have followed him and his menu from TAC Quick Thai Kitchen to this tiny spot under the el, enduring long waits and erratic service at peak times for the sake of dazzling food. Expect fine renditions of familiar dishes but also plenty of delightful less commonly encountered options. Crispy onchoy, a crispy tempura feast of shrimp, ground chicken, and Chinese water spinach makes all other salads seem wimpy and unimaginative. Yum woon sen talay is equally mind-expanding with its slippery glass noodles heaped with seafood—light, substantial, superfresh, minty, and seriously spicy all at once. BYO.