’Tis a gift, it’s been said, to be simple. And at this cozy little coffeehouse-turned-trattoria, Brad Schlieder continues to showcase the milder side of the Italian table, eschewing bombastic red sauces and cheesy standards for lighter, more delicate fare. The results are a mixed blessing. Choose wisely—say a classic veal milanese or a breezy Bolognese sauce set over handmade tagliatelle—and you’ll walk away singing Sinatra. But the platings, frustratingly austere and unimaginative, deserve more passion and pizzazz, as do the bland roasted chicken and salmon offerings. Happily, the fried zeppole and the red wine caramel panna cotta make bold finales.