The sushi is fine, but it's not the real reason to come here: Now it's the pickles and the output of the robata grill that deserve your belly space. Well-tuned flavors in simple-looking packages, such as maitake mushrooms in two sauces (black garlic and pickled plum) or bourbon-soaked tofu with scallions and shallots. Braised-duck donburi brings pickled plums and Fresno peppers to bear on tender duck leg and crispy skin. Loud when full. Sake list is expansive and expensive.