After more than ten years and the recent promotion of Erling Wu-Bower, Avec is still a well-oiled machine, dispensing pleasure and vacuuming up cash in a packed room that looks as good as it did on day one. Expect simple, seasonal, shareable small plates that let their ingredients shine. Cases in point: the brandade with garlic bread and a salad of hanger steak, shaved artichokes, pine nuts, and kale. To quote a nearby exuberant diner: “You’ve got to get the pork shoulder. It will change your life.” Only complaint: Compared with the exciting food, the wine list is starting to
to seem a bit sleepy.