Chris Pandel’s rustic-regional spot is like your favorite sweater in restaurant form: Yes it looks good, but it makes you feel even better. The kitchen excels when flour is involved: pillowy pizzas, hearty pastas, and a simple mushroom bruschetta that will have you singing from the (very high) rafters. Meatier mains, including fall-apart braised short ribs swimming in red sauce, make a strong impression as well. Affable servers can occasionally stumble over pacing, but take another sip from one of the potent amaro-laced cocktails and you’ll be too delighted to care. Desserts shine.