Don’t be put off by the idea of “heirloom” cooking happening here; Paul Fehribach’s lovingly researched, smartly executed fare is never pedantic. In-house baking, preserving, pickling, and meat-curing result in meals as tasty as all get-out. A winningly diverse pickle tasting comes with honey butter and fresh-baked Sally Lunn bread; the boucherie plate dazzles with Acadian andouille, dry-cured tasso ham, pâtés, and blood sausage. Plainspoken entrées—chicken and dumplings, pork and beans—are homey, not heavy, and seasonal sides such as grits and creamed barley with peas are also good bets. Fine whiskeys, bourbons, and specialty cocktails.