The decor (black, white, red), music (Piaf), and menu (onion soup, snails, crème brulée) are straight from a Paris playbook, but astute cooking and a genuinely cozy vibe in this narrow dining room transcend cliché. The soup, crusty bread, and paper-wrapped frites are reassuringly spot-on. More ambitious dishes also succeed: Expect feather-light puff pastry on the vol-au-vent, perfectly cooked bright green beans with the medallions of roast pork, and tangy braised red cabbage with the seared duck breast. Reasonably priced, mostly French, wines. A Monday prix fixe three-course meal is a real deal ($29).