With Martial Noguier bringing on the talented Jérôme Bacle as chef de cuisine, what could go wrong? Nothing. Not with such solid meals at welcoming prices in a chic setting. The conscise menu holds treasures such as mussel soup with tarragon and saffron aïoli, escargots in green garlic butter with mushroom duxelles, and seared Alaskan halibut with romesco and tarragon emulsion. For bistro approaching haute, try the veal sweetbreads in Madeira sauce. Classic profiteroles and well-priced French wines—it’s all good.