Giuseppe Tentori continues to offer one of the most striking and richly satisfying contemporary American menus in town. He has an affinity for working with underutilized ingredients and transforming potentially bitter offerings into cool and subdued flavors. Think radicchio risotto with juniper-laced veal breast, venison loin with a duo of mole mustard jus and apple bacon sauce, and short-rib ravioli with a roasted cauliflower purée and grilled beef tongue. The Asian options seem a touch out of place, but Sarah Jordan’s desserts, including a smooth rooibos (red tea) sherbet, prove to be ideal foils. Dynamic wine list and expert service.