Boka’s recent reinvention upped the ante, foodwise. Lee Wolen, Lobby), brings an intricate and deadly serious slant to the offerings. The decor, a playful mix that includes a 30-foot wall of moss and a portrait of Bill Murray as a sea captain, goes in another direction entirely, creating a palpable disconnect, but not enough to dampen a fine experience. The kitchen hits great heights, slow-cooking loup de mer and serving it with calamari and preserved blood oranges, artichokes, capers, and olives. A yuzu custard dessert with black sesame cake, pineapple sorbet, and candied buckwheat comes off like a panna cotta that attended finishing school. The cocktail scene makes plenty of noise of its own, even on the elegant back patio. Genial servers know their stuff, but pacing lags at times.