The glossy, hard-edged architecture feels more Dubai than Chicago, and the food also comes dressed to impress, with presentations so glamorous and photo-ready (sugar-sparkled riesling marshmallows, blackberries touched with gold leaf) that one hesitates to dig in. But Greg Biggers knows how to bring the flavor, too, juxtaposing pork tenderloin, English pea purée, and jalapeño jam on one plate, rabbit with mustard sabayon and fava beans on another, shaved vegetables with lemon truffle vinaigrette and pumpernickel crumbs on yet another. Dinners end with sweet overkill—a modernist tower of mignardises for each table. Serious wines, by-the-glass selection.
Nichols Farm vegetable salad with pumpernickel crumbs and lemon truffle vinaigrette ($12), braised pork belly with coconut sherry glaze and Yukon Gold purée ($12), Duroc pork tenderloin with wild boar sausage and jalapeño jam ($25), Swan Creek rabbit with carrot purée and fava beans ($30), blueberries and milk chocolate with horchata ice cream and aerated chocolate ($10)
