The setting, the staff, and the food exude modern Gallic charm in this smart hotel dining room. Greg Biggers’s creations excite with visual flair and shrewd juxtapositions of classic and global flavors as in his wonderful crab cakes with chipotle aïoli and scallion purée; housemade pickles, jams, and preserves enhance meals, including charcuterie and (and tastings of (housemade) cheese. Gratis starters and final macarons, lovely desserts, serious wines, and well-crafted cocktails make up for service lapses.
Dishes We Liked
Foie gras au torchon ($18), wild king salmon with artichoke purée ($26), chocolate malted milk balls filled with chocolate mousse ($10)