Mark Steuer’s satisfying—and deafening—ode to the low-country cooking of his South Carolina childhood gets so much right, the noise is but a minor inconvenience in this modern-homey space. All you’re going to talk about anyway is the impeccable fried chicken thigh resting in a reservoir of honey, or maybe the brawny clam boil swimming with tasso ham, meaty clams, and Vidalia onions. Steuer deftly amps up everything from coleslaw (topped with tiny pork rinds) to cornbread (with rhubarb preserves). The operation, staffed by a well-trained and gracious crew, runs out of magic at dessert. Skip it and order another Carolina Cocktail.