Like the decor, which dates back to 1998 but looks a decade older, the cuisine here reminds one of what dining out was like not all that long ago. Those in the mood to revisit the pre-small-plate era will find dishes like roasted beets with goat cheese mousse and candied walnuts, scallops with celeriac and apple, salmon over lentils, and that now rarely seen warhorse, rack of lamb (here with quite tasty quinoa and caramelized onions). For dessert? Soufflé, bien sûr. The ample wine list puts many others to shame.