Kendal Duque (Everest, Sepia) has modernized the menu at this handsome century-old restored firehouse while keeping lots of prime wet- and dry-aged beef on hand. He's lightened and brightened the dishes, beginning with porcini mushroom risotto and a super-crabby crab cake with yellow curry aioli and apple slaw. Superb meats include a thick veal chop with sweetbreads and a dry-aged black-truffle-crusted Kansas City steak; for fish, perfectly roasted walleye with cashew vinaigrette and caramelized market vegetables. Check out the house specialties for affordable treats such as whole-wheat fettucine carbonara with kale and smoked duck breast. Thick Key lime tart nails the experience. Serious martinis and wines.
Additional Information
Rating: 2 stars
Price: $50-plus
Cuisine: American, steaks
Neighborhood: South Loop
Noteworthy: child friendly high noise level live music/DJ/dancing outdoor dining telephone reservations wheelchair accessible
Dishes We Liked:
Sea scallops ($15), filet mignon flight with crusts of blue cheese, black pepper and Parmesan, and horseradish ($35), Key lime tart ($9)