This beautiful, dramatic room creates an almost-giddy anticipation for the food. Thai Dang’s Southeast Asian–influenced cuisine satisfies some of his diners’ expectations, but maybe not their hopes and dreams. Dishes often deliver sprinkles of novelty on Asian classics, such as a green papaya salad enhanced by housemade beef jerky. Others march to the contemporary small-plate drum and add Eastern inflections, such as escargots and smoky eggplant in green curry with shiso. And although Dang offers a few opportunities for adventuring, such as shrimp heads, you won’t be forced outside your comfort zone (unless your neighbors order a stinky durian).