Jean Joho’s Alsatian-inflected cuisine is as haute as ever, befitting this dining room’s perch on the 40th floor of the Chicago Stock Exchange, with spectacular views of the city below. The home-smoked salmon is still delicate, the risotto rich, the sturgeon wild, and the meringue-based Alsace vacherin as pretty a dessert as you might wish for. But such excellence makes missteps stand out. Oversalted salad, a snoozy striped bass entrée, and tepid coffee weren’t the only disappointments recently; service seemed disengaged and the whole experience a bit stodgy. Three courses, $94; four, $120; seven-course degustation, $165. World-class wines.