This kind of neighborhood restaurant more often encountered in the mind’s eye than around the corner: unassuming enough for a quick Tuesday night bite yet suitable for a weekend tête-à-tête. If there were nothing else on the menu, the rich, creamy mushroom risotto with rosemary would justify Gemini’s existence. Fortunately there’s also a solid frisée salad with lardons, a well-executed crab cake, and a hearty plate of roast chicken and mashed potatoes. A homey peach crisp carries the comfort-food theme through to the very end. If it feels like a throwback, well, you can’t eat grilled fish head and sous vide pork belly every night. Right?