Two years after its much-hyped debut, chef Stephanie Izard’s bold, loud, and perpetually crowded small-plate hotspot is still one of the toughest reservations in town. The surprise? It’s improving. Izard shows a unique talent for infusing unexpected sweetness into the heartiest of dishes, lacing sweet bacon relish over a tempura-style trout and popping tiny gooseberries into a meaty sugo pappardelle. Goat dishes—try the amazing goat shank special—remain a fun if often greasy staple, but it’s Izard’s take on seafood, such as whitefish in a goat chowder with apple gremolata, that conjures up fond memories of her previous spot, Scylla. Personable servers, who know their way around the exhaustive beer list and smart by-the-glass wine offerings, help make the trip worth the traffic.