Curtis Duffy’s menus (10 to 12 courses, $235) overflow with astounding ideas and flavors. In one gorgeous dish, a scallop has been pan-seared and then chilled, lending it a foie gras texture that transforms as you eat it with anise-hyssop foam and hibiscus. Smart details such as bread pairings also set the experience apart. Service is sharp—and crazy generous—but not quite four-star. Yet.