Chef/partner Shawn McClain’s stylish West Town spot changes hues with the seasons—colorful vegetables in the summer, mushrooms and root vegetables in the winter. But creative small plates of mostly organic vegetables show up all year round. Roasted beets, a quail egg, and black walnuts with olive-oil ice cream, and roasted mushroom broth with rosemary dumplings made enjoyable recent starters. Then might come a chickpea pancake topped with fried chickpeas and basil, or a kale-and-ricotta-filled cannellone with baby turnips. A few OK fish options, but peanut butter and chocolate mousse with marshmallow fluff and banana fritters is a fun dessert. Fine specialty cocktails; wine list favors nonclichéd whites. Service gaffes detract from a generally sophisticated experience.