Pity poor Indian cuisine. While East Asian fusionistas garner accolades and the spotlight from New York to Chicago to L.A., South Asian cooking seems incapable of breaking through. For every haute Indian joint that opens, one closes, and for every tandoori taco that pops up, another disappears. But, then, who really cares? Probably no one, if they’re feasting on falling-apart-tender goat curry or coconutty chicken or aloo tikki—little potato patties doused with yogurt, mint, and tamarind. Vegetarians take note: There’s a thali here with your name on it.