A tender New York strip and a side of fries will set you back $55, but there’s nothing intimidating about this efficient and otherwise democratic spot. Don’t miss the jumbo lump crab cake, worthy of its name. A special salad of roasted and pickled beets deserves a promotion to permanent status, and the calamari with tomato confit and arugula is deftly grilled. Consider skipping the bland filet mignon for the hulking smoked pork chop, despite its regrettable corn bread. Sides include rich garlic mashed potatoes and smoky sautéed green beans; desserts, a solid apple tart. Wine list favors the New World.