L2O

Belden-Stratford
2300 N Lincoln Park West

Chicago, IL 60614
773-868-0002
Rating:

Description

Matthew Kirkley, L2O’s executive chef and a master of food as art, works small—or, as Wonderland’s Alice might have remarked, in miniature and miniaturer. His inspired juxtapositions include teensy but expressive cubes of scallop and gelled sherry vinegar with foie gras; lubina mousse gift-wrapped in an adorable polka-dot dumpling; and dramatic lacquered lobster with Ruby Red grapefruit sections and black trumpet mushrooms. It’s all admirable, gorgeous, and delicious—if a bit fussy. Staffers struck us recently as overpresent and overscripted, except for the bread server, of whose visits and wee rosemary croissants we never tired. Serious wine program. Prix fixe menus from $140 to $198.

Reviewed

Dishes We Liked

(All dishes listed are part of a prix-fixe meal.) Tuna with tomato, foie gras snow, and hibiscus; sashimi platter; lamb tartare; foie gras, port, cocoa nibs, apple, and celery; kampachi; lobster, carrot, pineapple, yellow curry; shabu-shabu media with kombu bouillon, citrus, king oyster, and noodles; doughnuts

Related Stories

Dish: "Out with the L2Old . . ." November 2010

Dining Out: L2O and Mexique September 20087

Best New Restarurants 2009 May 2009

Additional Information

Rating:
Price: $50-plus
Cuisine: Seafood, contemporary
Neighborhood: Lincoln Park
Noteworthy: wheelchair accessible
Hours: D Thu-Mon.