Chef Roland Liccioni picked up where he left off during his last stint at this Richie Rich throwback. The gilded vibe extends to the four-course prix fixe menu, which fairly bursts with sumptuous French flavors. Highlights include a fennely kabocha squash soup, with caramelized pumpkinseeds and truffle foam, and a magnificent Kobe beef filet with trumpet royale mushrooms and shallot sauce. Asian influences crop up, as in an arctic char with a maitake mushroom, forbidden rice, and a sauce of yellow tomato and lemongrass. Lowlights: uninspired bread service, repeated sides, and periodic throwaways, such as an undercooked roasted duck breast with savoy cabbage, caramelized pearl onion, and green peppercorn sauce. But the wine list is as impressive as ever, and the servers are so affable you want to take them home. Prix fixe options: three courses $65 (before 5:30 p.m.); four courses $115; five courses $130.