Roland Liccioni’s elegant French cuisine leans more toward Once than Next, but let’s hear it for Mary Beth Liccioni’s exquisite salon, where well-attired diners can still luxuriate in the glow of fine French wines, foie gras, and truffles without the annoyance of cell phones or cameras. Among treasures on the prix fixe menu: warm lobster and shrimp salad with mango dressing, and a duo of veal sweetbreads in red wine sauce and prime beef rib eye in foie gras sauce, both lavished with truffles. The fish course might include sautéed Dover sole with asparagus in saffron beurre blanc. Of course you may also indulge in fine aged cheeses and superb soufflés. Polished servers offer smart advice on the rare vintages. Prix fixe options: three courses, $65 (before 5:30 p.m.); four courses, $115; five courses, $130.