Hip without chasing trends, more snug than smug, this early adopter of farm-to-table principles turns out enlightened food that glides through the seasons at a high level. A spring entrée might employ lemon and three preparations of cauliflower to complement leaner-than-usual short ribs. Beet bruschetta chaperones marinated kale, giving new life to the cliché of beets, goat cheese, and red onions. The funky atmosphere exudes honesty, with knowledgeable servers and reasonable prices. Contentment prevails.