Lovers of high-minded, seasonally astute food served in a casually arty atmosphere find their needs met here. The no-reservations policy can rankle, but smartly made cocktails and well-chosen wines make a wait pass quickly. A list of specials, tweaked daily, offers all manner of tasty surprises. Recent winners included winter squash bisque with French curry, sage, and fried milk; cherrywood-smoked quail with pickled watermelon rind; a rich tart involving wild mushrooms, raclette, and butter-roasted pecans; and a seriously beefy plate of braised short ribs with squash-prune agnolotti. A dessert of pumpkin tiramisù also dazzled. Knowledgeable servers are pleasantly unscripted.
Additional Information
Rating: 2 stars
Price: $30-$39
Cuisine: Contemporary American
Neighborhood: Logan Square
Noteworthy: child friendly outdoor dining wheelchair accessible will seat past 10:30 p.m.
Dishes We Liked:
Winter squash bisque ($9); steak tartare ($10); wild mushroom, raclette, and butter-roasted pecan tart ($12); Arctic char with Romanesca, leek, and pine nut ragout ($22); red kuri squash with caramelized fennel and panade of quince and black truffle ($19); braised Slagel Farm beef short ribs ($28); pumpkin tiramisù with apple ginger compote and crème fraîche ($9)
