This 17-year veteran of the fine-dining scene can still turn out rich and delicious dishes: supersoft gnocchetti with peas and sage butter, duck breast with cherries and velvety farro, the famous fries with truffle cream. The restaurant shows its age, however, when it touts seasonality and offers “first of spring” asparagus and “late-summer” peaches simultaneously. Stay off-trend here to hit the sweet spot.
Dishes We Liked
Crab toast ($7), gnocchetti ($14), octopus ($18), duck ($38), fries ($9; with extra truffle cream, $11), Roundhouse Kick cocktail ($14)