Global influences find pleasing expression in well-conceived dishes, nearly all available in half portions that make it easy to cover a lot of territory. Squeeze in at the bar and start with fresh fruit or vegetable juice enlivened, if you like, with a shot of vodka. Menu highlights include impressively delicate gyoza, cheesy polenta generously topped with wild mushrooms, bold caponata, grilled endive and radicchio with hazelnuts and blue cheese, and saag paneer that sheds new light on this Indian classic. Many vegan and gluten-free offerings. Service is casual but tuned in.