This high-energy dining room is loud both visually and aurally, and service can be erratic, but foodwise, Jose Garces, the chef, has a handle on it. Inventive Catalan small plates include Marcona almond gazpacho with smoked sturgeon and pickled gooseberries; steamed spinach with raisins, pine nuts, and green apple matchsticks; superb seasonal mushrooms with scrambled eggs, green pea tendrils, and toast smeared with fava bean purée. Not rich enough for you? Try rabbit agnolotti with brandied cherries and truffle-chestnut purée or slow-cooked pork belly in sweet cider glaze. Desserts are as virtuosic as what precedes, olive oil cake with blueberry escabeche being just one example. Spanish wines, sherries, tequilas, and cocktails.