If the French had managed to hang on to Mexico in the 19th century, this is the cuisine that might have evolved south of the border. Carlos Gaytan fashions classic Mexican flavors and ingredients into rillettes, mousse, glaze, coulis, and pastry cream forms. Seafood mousse tamal stuffed with crab fricassee and served with lemon confit and spiced bouillabaisse offers a delicious introduction to Gaytan’s style. Then savor pork belly braised in Brussels sprouts slaw, with mole negro, grilled shrimp, and pistachio mole verde. No margaritas but excellent sangría and appropriate wines at this charmer.