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Moto

945 W. Fulton Market
Chicago, IL 60607
312-491-0058
Rating:

Description:

(Editor’s note: Moto’s guiding spirit, Homaro Cantu, passed away April 14, 2015; just prior to that, the spot lost its longtime head chef Richie Farina, and sous chef Chris Anderson was promoted to that position. A reviewer has not revisited the restaurant since these events.) This spot continues to tinker with—and overturn—the staid conventions of fine dining with a rare combination of cooking skill and childlike experimentation. Expect to find a seasonal 14-course tasting menus with shape-shifting oddities such as shriveled freeze-dried grapes in a rich and milky gazpacho, braised bison with chilies pulverized into pixie-like dust to mimic an arid Southwestern landscape, and olive oil foams set next to emulsified olive jellies and braised octopus for a tongue-in-cheek take on a traditional seafood platter. Request a secluded high-backed banquette to maximize the element of surprise, and indulge in wine pairings to take the experience to another level.

    Categories:
  • Reviewed

Dishes We Liked

(All are part of a prix fixe menu.) Corn Suspension: bites of quail suspended over corn chowder; Spice Trade: goat presentations served with smoked eggplant purée; Picnic: cheese creations on red-checked napkins; Tree Trunk: maple syrup over sweetbreads, bacon, pancakes, and egg yolks; Baking 101: DIY peach pie with grapefruit juice.

Related Stories

Chicago’s Best Chefs: Homaro Cantu November 2006

Additional Information:

Rating:
Price: $50-plus
Cuisine: Contemporary
Neighborhood: West Loop/West Town
Noteworthy: Wheelchair accessible
Hours: D Tue-Sat.
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