(Editor’s note: Moto’s guiding spirit, Homaro Cantu, passed away April 14, 2015; just prior to that, the spot lost its longtime head chef Richie Farina, and sous chef Chris Anderson was promoted to that position. A reviewer has not revisited the restaurant since these events.) This spot continues to tinker with—and overturn—the staid conventions of fine dining with a rare combination of cooking skill and childlike experimentation. Expect to find a seasonal 14-course tasting menus with shape-shifting oddities such as shriveled freeze-dried grapes in a rich and milky gazpacho, braised bison with chilies pulverized into pixie-like dust to mimic an arid Southwestern landscape, and olive oil foams set next to emulsified olive jellies and braised octopus for a tongue-in-cheek take on a traditional seafood platter. Request a secluded high-backed banquette to maximize the element of surprise, and indulge in wine pairings to take the experience to another level.