Pan-Latin’s day has come and gone, but Nacional 27 soldiers on, slinging Mojitos and tiny tacos (with crispy shells!) like it’s 1998. At 11 p.m. on the weekends, dancers descend. Until then, you can feast on a handsome hunk of short rib in ancho chili sauce or fork-tender suckling pig over mashed boniato. Giggle at the mini tacos if you like, but you’ll gobble them up all the same. Finish with a tres leches cake, and you might ask yourself why that marvelous confection has yet to make the jump to mainstream ubiquity. Who’s ahead of the curve now?