Carrie Nahabedian’s linen-decked tables hint at nostalgia for fine dining past, while her kitchen blows you away with innovations. For example, a generously portioned foie gras appetizer sits atop a tarte Tatin, which incorporates the flavors of cranberry and pineapple quince to boost the foie’s richness. A venison entrée benefits from juniper berry juice, pork belly, candied pecans, and parsnips in several textures. Expensive but excellent wines.
Dishes We Liked
Yukon potato gnocchi, braised oxtails and chorizo, Sofia cheese, eggplant, red pepper, and quail egg ($15); Hudson Valley foie gras with pineapple quince, tarte Tatin, poached cranberries, walnuts, vinegar, and licorice root ($27); New Zealand venison with juniper berry juice, pecans, parsnips, wheatberries, bacon, and argan oil ($47); farm plate of roasted quail, veal sweetbreads, coddled duck egg, cockscomb, hen of the woods mushrooms, sunchokes, grits, and sauce Arabica ($38)