After breaking all the rules as a sous chef at Schwa, Gaetano Nardulli embraced traditional rustic Italian spot in the northwest suburbs. Skip the conservative appetizers and pace your pasta intake (rigatoni Bolognese is worth a stop) to get to the good stuff. Nardulli’s entrées knit together hearty proteins with semisweet veggies in delightful and surprising ways, such as walleyed pike set in a cannellini bean ragu and a lamb shank braised in a dark, smoky carrot purée. Brown butter cake is easily the best dessert, and the entire wine list sings.
Dishes We Liked
Walleye with cannellini beans ($27), braised lamb shank with grilled carrot purée ($28), chicken breast with roasted fingerling potatoes ($24), brown butter cake ($6)