The buzz never fades at Grant Achatz’s stunner, which changes its identity and approach three times a year. Nor does the originality. Chef Dave Beran’s sixth menu, a Kyoto kaiseki, featured one of Next’s finest hours, the “Japanese maple forest”: shrimp, bottarga, a parsnip chip with corn custard topped by trout roe, lotus root chips in an uni shell, and pickled turnip wrapped in nori and duck prosciutto, all hidden in leaves illuminated by a candle in a daikon radish “lantern.” Service is as playful and authoritative as ever. After the current menu, a Midwestern game prix fixe called “The Hunt,” finishes in late April, Next goes vegan. To buy tickets, go to Next’s website far in advance. And pray.