One Off Hospitality (Blackbird, Avec) hits the mark as usual with this perpetually packed space. Chef Erling Wu-Bower mixes familiar and unusual flavors in a menu that includes Nantucket Bay scallops and tagliolini with Hama Hama clams. The buttery, salt-crusted wild branzino is the finest fish in the Gold Coast. Desserts and cocktails deserve all the attention they get.
Dishes We Liked
Escarole and Little Gem lettuce salad ($12); grilled quail al tonnato with arugula, truffled-peach olives, and blood orange ($18); sunchoke sformato with lobster, chilies, and radicchio ($17); octopus fettunta with pocha beans, shallot Treviso jam, and olives ($15); whole wild branzino for two ($38-$42); hen of the woods mushrooms ($12); grapefruit meringata ($11)