One Off Hospitality (Blackbird, Avec) sets its sights on coastal Italian and hits the mark as usual in this gold-toned, perpetually packed space. Chef Erling Wu-Bower’s kitchen crew mixes familiar and unusual flavors with such dexterity that you lose track of which is which and sink into pure enjoyment. Ultrafresh crudos and housemade pastas dominate the smart menu, especially the Nantucket Bay scallops and the tagliolini with Hama Hama clams. But Nico’s whole fish exists on another plane: The salt-crusted wild branzino, buttery and crisp, served with forest mushrooms and Zante currants, is the finest fish in the Gold Coast, if not the city. Amanda Rockman’s desserts and Matty Eggleston’s cocktails vie for attention—and they’re good enough to get it.