The central conceit behind Jerrod and R. J. Melman’s first foray into French food is clever enough: Capture the eternal allure of Paris, both its storied past and its progressive present, by offering a little of both. You can choose your own Parisian adventure. Eat in a trendy bar bathed in blacks and golds or a dining room of white subway tiles and foggy mirrors. Share Americanized small plates, like short rib drippings on toast, or settle in for three courses of French classics. We recommend the classics, especially the charcuterie board, which showcases the kitchen’s skill with terrines and sausages, and Alsatian recipes that never age: an incredibly rich braised pork belly, fluffy onion spaetzle, and a divine apple strudel.