Once a beacon for young revelers seeking bubbly cocktails and Parisian-inspired small plates, Paris Club now caters to a more mature dining set, offering traditional French fare with a splash of Old World sophistication. The smaller dining room—flush with dark woods, ornate chandeliers, and enough shadows to conjure up an appealing air of mystery—provides the ideal backdrop for Doug Psaltis’s throwback menu. The best strategy? Order the richest stuff on the menu: truffled scrambled eggs with lobster, a mouthwateringly tender roasted lamb shank, or the house-smoked côtes de porc with peas and bacon. Save some room for a foot-long éclair filled with coffee custard or the boozy baba cake, which is drenched tableside with your choice of three different rums.