Make no mistake about it. You will be treated like Italian nobility at Pelago, a refined white-tablecloth affair, where the dining room enforces a strict “no children under 12 policy, and professional servers watch every table as if they’re Swiss Guards. Mauro Mafrici makes pastas—garganelli tossed in a sage-hen ragu and veal ravioli dressed in a silky pistachio sauce—that don’t often leave the old country. And you can delight in rare Italian delicacies such as roasted rabbit and an ultramoist braciola of pork and duck served under a canopy of fresh spices. But they come at a steep cost, especially for rather timid appetizers and a hit-and-miss desserts. Invest in the well-curated wine list instead. You could also double up on the delicious pastas.