Paul Virant, a.k.a. Mr. Preservation, attached his name to the preexisting Perennial, and his style now bursts from every corner of the room. Pickles, jams, or preserves appear in most dishes, lending palpable freshness and tartness. Radical seasonality and artisanal touches such as charcuterie and forcemeats further define the restaurant’s au courant character, showing earth’s continually renewing bounty (sometimes via the larder) and Virant’s unmistakable stamp. The name may look odd, but it describes the place to a T.