The seafoody sister to Piccolo Sogno, a rustic Italian venture, this spot extends the lovely design and ambiance of the original but doesn't quite measure up foodwise. For every bull's eye—such as rich tagliolini with crabmeat, sea urchin, and garlic or crispy-skinned pike with clams, pancetta, and white beans—there's an off-center shot, such as too-bland Scottish salmon carpaccio or a greasy, underdeveloped rabbit in sherry sauce. Faultless technique and attractive presentations, however, bump up all dishes. A well-chosen meal here paired with a wine from the all-Italian wine list would win over any curmudgeon. Thoughtful, helpful service.
Octopus with red pepper, fingerling potatoes, and tonnato sauce ($14); tagliolini with sea urchin, crabmeat, garlic, and parsley ($20); pike with clams, pancetta, and white beans ($26); cannoli ($9)
