The aim of this unassuming gem in Lombard, which boasts a family-friendly atmo, al fresco dining, and an attached wine bar, is simple: Deliver an unpretentious pan-European menu paired with friendly, attentive service. Mission accomplished, especially if you opt for the signature veal Praga—strips of veal in a delicate Cognac demi-glace cream sauce with red cabbage and spätzle that brilliantly preserves the elegance of Old World cuisine. The dessert menu is somewhat lacking in allure, but you can expect your steaks, grilled seafood, and creamy risottos to arrive as ordered and creatively sauced. The kitchen’s fundamentals are sound, and the service more than inviting.