Gentlemen don jackets and ties, and ladies bedeck themselves in pearls for a night at this tony canteen, where chef-owner Michael Lachowicz (clad in a T-shirt and jeans) greets his regulars. The kitchen lacks consistency, but at its best honors traditional French fine dining—for instance, with a ballotine of lobster and crab in a carrot gelée. Two prix fixe menus ($61, $69). More formal dining in the George Trois Room (six courses, $150; nine courses, $180). First-rate wine list.