Gentlemen don jackets and ties and ladies bedeck themselves in pearls for a night at this plutocrats’ canteen, where chef-owner Michael Lachowicz (clad in a T-shirt and jeans) greets his regulars. At its best, the kitchen makes a superb case for traditional French fine dining, with ballotine of lobster and crab surrounded by a sweet and deceptively spicy carrot gelée, for instance. Consistency, however, is lacking. First-rate wine list. Two prix fixe menus ($55.50, $64).