Yes, weekend wait times are maddening. But once you’ve settled into this candlelit 28-seater, with its whimsical decor (recycled church pews for booths, old cookbooks perched along tangerine walls) and refreshingly down-to-earth staff, it’s tough to stay irked. On the compact menu, clever combos and impeccable details make for memorable dishes. Try the octopus appetizer, braised in red wine for three hours and plated with black soybean paste, roasted grapes, and lightly fried chickpeas. Familiar-sounding entrées surprise, too: Shrimp and grits is actually a steaming medley of seafood bathed in tomato-tarragon shrimp bisque, all atop a tender polenta cake.