It’s alarming when a longtime Chicago standout goes on cruise control . . . and no one notices. Priscila and Vince Satkoff’s Old Town favorite seems to have stopped pushing forward, and too many of the regional Mexican dishes they’ve been known for since 1995 have become sloppy. Once-great creations, such as an impeccable beef tenderloin topped with bubbly Chihuahua cheese, get so doused in a spicy tomatillo-morita sauce that you wonder what’s going on in the kitchen. Even the guacamole picado, surrounded by an inelegant pile of run-of-the-mill tortilla chips, tastes tired. Desserts, such as the classic flan caramelo, and astute wine service remain high points—and the genial staff, while at times overfamiliar, is well trained and attentive. But, as evidenced by the understated jumbo blue crab cake with avocado-tomatillo-habanero salsa, ¡Salpicon! can do better.