Michael Carlson turns out brilliant contemporary food at the most unlikely BYO in town. The kitchen team double as waiters and serve some stunners: ravioli filled with liquid quail egg yolk, truffle, and buffalo; sous vide antelope loin on butternut squash with antelope ragu and macadamia purée. Don't be surprised if candied sweetbreads and parsnip custard show up in your dessert. Nine courses, $115. Contacting Schwa to make a reservation requires the patience of Job, and Carlson has been known to indulge in last-minute closures and cancellations.