With today’s chefs hollering ever louder to grab headlines, Andrew Zimmerman thrives by going in the other direction. His evolving menu specializes in quiet standouts packed with big flavors and fun details, like brûléed miso or smoked potato gnocchi. Even typically brawny dishes get the kid-glove treatment, as in last fall’s showstopping flat iron steak, topped with crunchy coffee-crystal nubbins, alongside confit potato and maitake mushrooms. Desserts, such as a malted-milk chocolate mousse on peanut butter crunch with pretzel bark, do not trail off, nor does the top-notch cocktail program. And we still adore the contempo-rustic space, where little circular chandeliers lend nearly each table the illusion of privacy. The only thing preventing Sepia from greatness: casual service. If the staff treated the restaurant more like a place for a special occasion, with this food, it could easily become one.